Today we hiked to Midnight Lake on the Sabrina Basin Trail with our Sierra Club group. This hike was longer than our hike to the top of Chocolate Peak yesterday, so we started at 7:15 instead of 8:00.
It was 62 degrees with clear skies as we got out of our cars. We got on the trail and hiked along Lake Sabrina, climbing over a hill and enjoying early morning views of the lake and the mountains. This hill was pleasant now, but it would get us on the way back as one last climb at the end of a long day.
We gradually climbed past the lake through what turned out to be my favorite landscape today: a wonderful mix of sagebrush, mountain-mahogany, and aspen, filled with wildflowers. The effect was a scene of subtle shades of silver, gold, and olive, but with hidden colors from red Eaton’s firecracker, scarlet gilia, pink Wyoming paintbrush, yellow buckwheat, purple lupine, and white phlox and angelica.
Past the end of the lake, we followed switchbacks through a lodgepole pine forest dense with mosquitoes. I had long pants and sleeves to keep them off, but there were enough of them here that I put on my headnet to protect my face and neck.
At the end of the switchbacks, we came out of the forest and got our first views of the peaks of the Evolution Region rising to over 13,000 feet.
As we climbed some more, the trail zigzagged through talus slopes with vast numbers of cream and pink columbines growing between the rocks, an impressive display on seemingly inhospitable terrain. Some of the pink ones were rare hybrids between Coville’s and crimson columbines, only possible where their ranges overlap.
We continued gaining elevation, winding around too many lakes, ponds, and meadows to remember. The meadows were filled with mosquitoes as well as wildflowers, and my hands, the only part of my body left unprotected, suffered a few bites, but I considered them a small price to pay for the scenery.
Where the trail crossed the Middle Fork of Bishop Creek, the creek was some 50 yards wide and the boulders strung across it for hikers were partially submerged. Getting to the other side with our feet dry seemed improbable no matter what, so Elizabeth and I just took off our shoes and forded the creek. The water was cold and knee-deep, but the sandy bottom made for comfortable walking, and when we put on our shoes on the other side of the creek, we felt refreshed.
Just after the creek crossing, we ran into a college friend of mine, Laura Rose, who had coincidentally started on a 10-day backpacking trip with family and friends yesterday. They were carrying far more gear than we were and as a result had taken two days to walk what had taken us a few hours. Elizabeth and I talked with them for a while before parting ways and continuing with our own group, arriving at Midnight Lake a little before noon.
The granite mountains and snowy gullies of the Evolution peaks were reflected in the lake’s cobalt water and a few tents were hidden in the pines.
Our group stopped for lunch and a few of them went swimming in the lake. Elizabeth and I watched for a while and then decided that we should try a dip, too. So, after we finished eating, we went behind some whitebark pines and changed into swimming clothes.
I went in first, stepping carefully on the rocks along the shore and wading into the icy water until I was in up to my knees. I walked to the edge of an underwater cliff, where the water in front of me was a cold blue with no bottom in sight. I could already feel my legs and feet getting numb. Not wanting to prolong my anticipation, I dove in. My body immediately wanted to get out. I only swam a little circle before making my way back to shore, shivering.
Elizabeth jumped in next. After watching my pathetic display, she didn’t want to repeat it, so she made sure to keep her swimming composed and slow, without complaints.
We began to dry ourselves in the sun, but when the mosquitoes started to bite us, we decided against it and changed back into our hiking clothes. By the time we got dressed, our group was about to leave the lake for the hike back and Elizabeth and I felt fresh and rejuvenated from our swim.
We didn’t see Laura Rose’s group on our way back; they had probably set up camp at one of the many lakes off the main trail. The day had become warm and sunny, and when we reached the last hill before getting to our cars it was 82 degrees and we could see the Owens Valley baking in the sun.
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