Category Archives: Northeastern coastal forests

Wyanokie High Point loop hike from Otter Hole

Today, Elizabeth and I hiked a loop to Wyanokie High Point in New Jersey’s Norvin Green State Forest.

We left behind New Jersey’s interstates and suburbs and parked at the Otter Hole trailhead. The air was hazy and, even at 9:30 in the morning, already warm.

The forest canopy was filled with fresh, green, deciduous leaves that cast dark, humid shadows. We are in the New Jersey Highlands, the hilly northern third of New Jersey. Contrary to most people’s perception of the state, the New Jersey Highlands are still heavily forested, and these forests are generally well protected by parks and preserves.

Posts Brook waterfall on Norvin Green State Forest Hewitt-Butler trail

We crossed Posts Brook, skipping from boulder to boulder over several small waterfalls, then followed it east. We passed Otter Hole, a cool, dark pool below one of Posts Brook’s waterfalls, perfect for dipping on hot days like today.

Norvin Green State Forest Lower trail

We turned away from the brook and climbed a hill into the interior of the forest. Rocks and boulders jutted out of the thin soil. Soon we were on top of the hill, following a ridge through alternating views and forests.

Elizabeth and I have been spoiled by California, where we can hike for an entire summer day without breaking a sweat. But here, the warmth and moisture gave rise to a fecund landscape of vegetation and bugs. As we hiked, sweat wet our faces and clothes, flies buzzed around us, mosquitoes bit us, inchworms landed on us, and spiderwebs clung to us.

Norvin Green State Forest Post Brook trail

Getting higher, the rocks became extensive outcrops with only small trees and bushes growing between their cracks. We saw the tops of the trees we had just walked through and the forested hills beyond them. As we climbed higher, we got more outcrops and more views. We couldn’t see very far through the hazy air, however; we could hardly make out the shapes of the clouds in the sky.

Norvin Green State Forest Wyanokie High Point

From a break in the forest we saw a knob of rock jutting out from the hill ahead of us. I hadn’t planned on hiking to it, but it was too alluring to resist. We dipped back into the forest, then contoured around the base of the high point, scrambling over and around big boulders. Soon, we had left the forest and were walking up round, polished rock. We were sweaty from the climb, and the sun, humidity, and 85-degree heat combined to microwave us. We were on Wyanokie High Point.

We sat down in the shade of a pine and enjoyed the warm breeze. I looked around as we ate our lunch. Even though I’d been hiking in New Jersey for over a decade, the continuous expanse of forest I saw astonished me. There were rocky ridges and summits with scrappy trees and shrubs clinging to the thin soil. Below them were thickly forested valleys split by tumbling streams.

Yellow birch (Betula alleghaniensis) on Norvin Green State Forest Macopin trail

The expanse of forest was beautiful from our high point, but in truth it was not healthy. Deer are abundant–too abundant–and their browsing is keeping the forest from regenerating. The only new plants growing are those that the deer refuse to eat. Why has this happened? Because the deer’s natural predators, wolves and cougars, were hunted to extinction here centuries ago.

Forester Aldo Leopold observed this phenomenon as long ago as 1949, when wolves were being extirpated from America’s western states:

I have watched the face of many a newly wolfless mountain, and seen the south-facing slopes wrinkle with a maze of new deer trails. I have seen every edible bush and seedling browsed, first to anaemic desuetude, and then to death. I have seen every edible tree defoliated to the height of a saddlehorn. Such a mountain looks as if someone had given God a new pruning shears, and forbidden Him all other exercise.

The deer population won’t decrease, and the forest won’t be healthy, until we allow its predators to return. How do we know that predators will do the job? Consider my home state of California. From the 1960s to today, the deer population in California dropped from 2 million to 440,000. Why? In 1963, the cougar in California went from being a “bountied predator”, where the government paid for killed animals, to being a “game animal”. In 1990 it became a “special protected animal” and hunting of it was outlawed. As the cougar population increased, the deer population fell.

Norvin Green State Forest Post Brook trail

We walked down from Wyanokie High Point and back into the forest. Our sweat had dried in the wind and we were cool from resting. We got back to our car and finished our hike at 1:30.


Here are the details for the loop we took:

R on Hewitt-Butler Trail (blue)
R on Posts Brook Trail (white)
L on Carris Hill Trail (yellow)
R on Hewitt-Butler Trail (blue)
Stop at Wyanokie High Point
continue on Hewitt-Butler Trail (blue)
L on Macopin Trail (white)
L on Otter Hole Trail (green)

South Mountain Reservation in winter

Elizabeth and I stopped at South Mountain Reservation for a quick hike this morning. We started from a hilltop overlook at 8:30. It was 38 degrees. A fierce wind blew through the trees, sending them swaying with each gust. Wind-blown drizzle threatened to soak anything that wasn’t waterproof. A thick layer of clouds drifted overhead. The trees were dark and wet from the rain.

One of the largest metropolitan areas in the country lay to our east. Newark, Jersey City, and New York City were right in front of us, but we couldn’t see them. We saw only a tree-lined grid of residential streets fading into a dull fog.

We turned into the woods and started hiking. After just a few steps, I knew I wouldn’t be able to keep my shoes dry. Last night’s steady rain had turned the snow on the ground into two inches of slush. Snow in the depressions had turned into ponds of gray water. My ultralight trail runners recently failed me in the snow, and now they would fail me again. Well, rather than tiptoe around trying not to get my feet wet, I plodded ahead and got them soaked right away. Then I wouldn’t have to worry about them anymore.

Elizabeth was wiser. She had wool socks and insulated shoes and kept off the wetter parts of the trail. This tactic would keep her feet dry for nearly an hour.

The only map I had for the park was hand-drawn. I began with no faith in its network of unnamed trails, but my trust in it increased with each intersection I identified. I was even able to hike cross-country from one trail to another.

I don’t know if the forest was old growth, but it was certainly mature. Big, old trees had polished stumps from branches they’d lost long ago. Fallen trees were rotting and had their roots kicked up, leaving pits where they’d grown. Again, as at Hartshorne Woods, I was able to recognize the more familiar tree species by their bark.

There wasn’t much color besides white and brown. Pale green lichen grew on the oak trunks. The younger beeches still had their copper leaves attached. The only greenery came from eastern white pines.

We didn’t have much time, since we needed to drive on to Pennsylvania. Before turning around, we stopped next to a pretty stream. We listened to its trickling and the songs of a few chickadees.

Satisfied with my navigating abilities, I chose a different route for our return. Everything went fine until I started seeing intersections I didn’t expect. After ten minutes of this I admitted to myself, as well as Elizabeth, that we were lost. She was having fun in the snow and was genuinely unconcerned by the news. Which way was our car? The forest looked the same in every direction. Which way was north? The sun was in the southeast, but I couldn’t see it through the clouds. I had a compass, too, but I didn’t feel like getting it out.

I considered returning to the last point where I was certain of my location. Then I remembered the ridge on the other side of the reservation, which I’d seen when we started, and which I knew ran north-northwest. Our car was opposite that ridge.

We stayed on the trail. I saw a road through the trees, but it was too busy to be the one on which we’d parked. I checked my map: it was the main road through the park, which meant that our road couldn’t be far. At the next intersection, I was able to figure out where we were. Getting back to the car would be quick and easy. We were done with our hike at 10.

My feet hadn’t bothered me much, but that was because they’d gone numb. In the car, I took off my shoes to replace my wet socks with dry socks. But putting socks on my feet was like putting socks on a cadaver. I couldn’t wiggle my toes. My skin was pale and clammy. I thought this was a compelling argument for waterproof shoes with high tops, but the truth is I wouldn’t hike in these conditions again for at least a year. I drove away and warmed my feet under the car’s heater. That would do for now.

Hartshorne Woods Park in the snow

I braced myself for more pain: even as my feet were recovering from a very cold hike through the snow in Sandy Hook, we were getting ready for another hike at Hartshorne Woods Park. Elizabeth was nice enough to lend me a pair of dry wool socks to replace my wet liner socks.

It was 35 degrees with 8 inches of powdery snow on the ground in Hartshorne Woods, just like Sandy Hook. But this time there was no wind, since we were farther inland and sheltered by forest. The snow on the trails was also well packed down—Hartshorne Woods had seen a lot more hikers than had Sandy Hook. These were conditions where my trail runners just might work. Maybe my feet would stay warm and dry after all.

We started our hike at 3 in the afternoon with only an hour and a half of daylight left. We decided on the 2.5-mile Laurel Ridge Loop. Sure, we might finish after sunset, but the leafless trees and the white snow would keep the forest bright through the dusk. And if we got lost, the park was small and hemmed in by suburbs.

The only plants with leaves on them were mountain-laurels and hollies. The mountain-laurels grew as nondescript bushes on the hillsides, but the hollies were 20-foot tall trees with shiny green leaves and bright red berries. The latter reminded me of Christmas.

I found I could identify many of the bare deciduous trees by their bark and shape. Northern red oaks had tight bark with vertical fissures. Eastern white oaks had curving branches and light gray bark that peeled off in strips. Tuliptrees had tall, straight trunks and had fruits on the ends of their branches.

A group of deer trotted up a hill. They saw us and froze. Their winter coats were the color of tree trunks and their tails were the color of snow, making them nearly invisible when they stopped.

We could see the houses that surrounded the park through the winter forest. They looked like islands in a sea of asphalt and turf, just like all the other buildings in the area. This seemed to me a destructive and inefficient use of space, and part of me wished that they had been more closely spaced so that more wild land could have been spared. But I didn’t dwell on these thoughts for long—the forest was so pleasant.

The sun set. As it disappeared behind a ridge, its golden light filtered through the treetops. The high clouds slowly turned rose and orange. The snow, reflecting the sky, glowed pink. The temperature dipped below freezing.

We were at the last intersection on our hike. The car was a few minutes away, but Elizabeth and I were having so much fun that we decided to walk another trail for a while before heading back. We walked to the top of a hill and enjoyed the woods in the pretty dusk. There was still plenty of light.

We turned back. Elizabeth broke out in a run. I ran too. We slid and hopped down the trail, sending up clouds of powder.

We got back to the car at twilight, thoroughly pleased with our little hike in the snow. I’m happy to report that my feet stayed warm and dry.